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Cumulus Inc. by Andrew McConnell

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Published by Lantern, $59.95

In the introduction to his first book, McConnell describes Cumulus Inc. as an eating house and bar: "A lively social hub … based on the idea of where I would like to eat, relax and socialize in my downtime."

His first book includes signature dishes that reflect the buzz and excitement of his restaurant. The recipes are well set out, easy to follow and include tips and alternatives.

The brooding photography by Earl Carter is the perfect accompaniment to this impressive hardcover volume. Cumulus Inc. is an inspiring addition to any food-lover's kitchen library.

Recipes

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Spiced cauliflower salad with goat's curd

This riff on the theme of cauliflower cheese is a delicious concoction. It makes a great stand-alone salad, and is a perfect accompaniment to barbecued or grilled lamb chops.
> View Recipe > Recipe PDF


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Tuna tartare with crushed pea salad

Raw fish and goat's curd - who ever would have thought it such a winning combination? First brought to light by Tetsuya Wakuda, this combination is a startling one...
> View Recipe > View PDF


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Whole slow-roast lamb shoulder, to share

The shoulder is a hard-working joint of the lamb, with wonderful inter-muscular fat and cartilage. Small whole lamb shoulders with an even covering of fat are best.
> View Recipe > View PDF

Andrew McConnell

There's a reassuring calm about chef Andrew McConnell. Modest and gentlemanly he almost singlehandedly created the modern era of hip, cool and casual dining that has defined the restaurant scene in 21st century Melbourne.

The chef and owner of the hottest restaurants in the southern capital, namely Cumulus Inc., Cutler & Co and Golden Fields has developed his own signature in food - intelligent, considered, light and very gently blending techniques and cuisines from Europe and Asia. It's subtle, sexy and very successful.

Success wasn't accidental for McConnell. It was planned. As a schoolboy he worked in a bakery on weekends. "I loved the camaraderie between the bakers," he says. "They were rough. I was from North Balwyn, a bland suburb.

But from them I learned to transform water, yeast and flour into beautiful baked forms."

By coincidence his mother bumped into a young Bill Marchetti who was about to embark on his first solo venture, benchmark Melbourne restaurant Marchetti's Latin. Although McConnell was just working weekends and yet to start his apprenticeship he was exposed to Marchetti's dishes such as hand-made pasta, salt cod and delicate sheep yoghurt panna cotta.

McConnell knew then that he wasn't going to enrol in the long-earmarked fine arts course. He was going to become a chef. He would do an apprenticeship and work each of his four years in four different kitchens learning four different types of cuisine.

He started his apprenticeship proper at Maria and Walter's, a 26-seat fine diner in Carlton. "The menu was ostensibly French," he remembers, "but Maria was Swedish so dill kept gently creeping into the dishes." He moved on to Caper's where the chef was French trained but had travelled extensively in Asia. "The result was a forerunner of fusion cuisine," says McConnell. Next he learned the Middle Eastern spice palate from Greg Malouf, a Melbourne chef with Lebanese parents. He did his final year at Tansy Good's eponymous city restaurant where he learned the secrets of butter, cream and herbs.

Having finished his apprenticeship at 22, he travelled through Europe learning the foundation dishes of European cuisines by dining in restaurants and funding this culinary education as a journeyman chef.

After three years in Europe, he landed a job in Hong Kong. Four and half years working there and in Shanghai saw McConnell spending every spare moment eating street food, again to learn the flavours, textures and ingredients of Hong Kong and Shanghai cuisine.

Having consolidated his understanding of the food of the world, he was ready to return to Melbourne. In 2000 he opened what was then the hottest restaurant in town - Dining Room 211.

However, with just 40 seats it was difficult to make a profit. Despite seamlessly melding mostly French food with and Asian ideas on the plate, winning a Best Young Chef and two out of a possible three Age Good Food Guide chefs hats, Dining Room 211 closed in 2003.

McConnell opened the larger but less exciting Mrs. Jones nearby and then went to work at Circa, the Prince where he took the St Kilda restaurant to a stellar three chef's hats. "Because I had the Van Haandel family [the owners of Circa] behind me taking care of the administration I could focus 100 per cent on food," he says.

"That was the turning point for me. With no responsibility and no distractions I learned to cook at the best of my abilities."

He then transformed Mrs. Jones into Restaurant 312, the menu of which became the foundation for Cumulus Inc., his all-day casual restaurant he opened in Melbourne's iconic Flinders Lane in 2008. The food is deceptively simple - perhaps some cold-smoked salmon with apple and liquorice or a plate of smoked cracked wheat with preserved lemon - all deliciously more-ish.

McConnell built upon the success of Cumulus Inc. with the inner suburban chic diner Cutler & Co. Distressed brick walls and giant indoor tree ferns in a warehouse space is the setting for what many think is the most exciting restaurant in town. The food may be as simple as anchovy pastries or as textural as a John Dory fillet with spinach, octopus and seaweed butter.

In 2011 he opened the pan-Asian based Golden Fields restaurant in the bayside suburb of St Kilda. It was an instant hit winning Best New Restaurant and sending hordes flocking for dishes such as homemade kim chi, lobster rolls and slow roast salt pork with pickled cabbage.

McConnell's next move is the renovation of an inner suburban pub a block down from Cutler and Co. serving good pub food at the bar and a la carte in the dining room. "It won't be a gastro pub," he says calmly but firmly.

When asked the secret of his success McConnell smiles. It's warm and generous, which helps explain his modest answer: "Other people," he says. "I am successful because I am surrounded by talented and hard working people. I have the ability to get on with people and I keep my staff," he says.

"It's people that are the heart of my business."


Cumulus Inc., 45 Flinders Lane, Melbourne, (03) 9650 1445 www.cumulusinc.com.au


Golden Fields, 157 Fitzroy Street, St Kilda, (03) 9525 4488 www.goldenfields.com.au


Cutler & Co., 55-57 Gertrude Street, Fitzroy, (03) 9419 4888 www.cutlerandco.com.au


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Eclipse Magazine  /  Summer  /  2011/12

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